10 reasons to visit the French Basque Country in spring

 

Spring might just be one of the best times to discover the French Basque Country.

The landscape around Ainhoa turns intensely green, the mountains are inviting again, the coast is still relatively peaceful and the villages have not yet reached the busy rhythm of July and August.

You may not get guaranteed sunshine — this is the Basque Country, after all — but spring is the season when you can comfortably combine the things that make this region special: mountain walks, village lunches, markets, the Atlantic coast and long afternoons exploring either side of the French-Spanish border.

Here are 10 reasons we particularly love the French Basque Country in spring.

1. The countryside is at its greenest

There is a reason the Basque hills look the way they do.

Spring rain, warmer days and longer evenings transform the countryside around Ainhoa into an extraordinary mixture of fresh green pasture, woodland, ferns and wildflowers.

After winter, the landscape seems to wake up almost overnight. Streams are full, the mountains are vivid and even familiar walks look different from one week to the next.

It is also a particularly beautiful time for photography — especially after one of those showers that leaves the white façades of Ainhoa glowing against dark green hills.

2. It is wonderful weather for hiking

Summer walking in the Basque mountains can become hot, particularly on exposed climbs. Spring is often far more comfortable.

From Ainhoa, you can walk directly into the hills, climb to the Hawthorn Chapel, follow part of the Camino de Santiago or join longer routes such as the GR10.

Further afield, Sare, La Rhune and the valleys towards the Spanish border offer everything from gentle walks to full days in the mountains.

You still need to be prepared for changing weather — and muddy paths after rain — but that is part of walking here in spring.

→ Discover our guide to hiking around Ainhoa

3. The Camino comes back to life

Ainhoa lies on the Camino Baztanés, the historic Camino de Santiago route linking Bayonne with Pamplona across the western Pyrenees.

Spring is one of the natural seasons for long-distance walking: the days are getting longer, temperatures are generally more comfortable than in midsummer and pilgrims begin to appear again on the paths through the village.

Even if you have no intention of walking all the way to Santiago, you can follow part of the Camino from Ainhoa as a day walk and experience some of the old paths that have connected France and Navarre for centuries.

→ Read the history of Ainhoa and the Camino

4. Pottoks are back in the mountain landscape

One of the pleasures of walking in the Basque hills is never quite knowing when you might encounter a group of Pottoks, the small native ponies of the Basque Country.

These hardy mountain ponies live outdoors for much of the year, and seeing them grazing against the Pyrenean landscape is very different from meeting horses in a paddock or riding centre.

They can sometimes be spotted around the hills near Ainhoa, while La Rhune is particularly associated with free-ranging Pottoks.

They are not tourist attractions and should be left to graze in peace — which is part of what makes coming across them so special.

→ Meet the Pottok, the little pony of the Basque mountains

5. The villages are quieter

Ainhoa, Sare, Espelette and the other well-known villages of the inland Basque Country can become very busy during the height of summer.

Spring feels different.

There are visitors, cafés and restaurants are coming back to life, but it is still possible to wander through the villages at a slower pace, look at the architecture, stop for lunch and enjoy the surroundings without everything feeling crowded.

It is an especially nice season for visiting Ainhoa, when the village and surrounding mountains still feel closely connected rather than separated by summer traffic.

→ Discover what to do in Ainhoa and the surrounding area

6. You can enjoy the coast without needing a beach day

The Basque coast is beautiful even when it is far too cool to spend the entire day lying on the sand.

In spring, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Guéthary, Bidart and Biarritz are perfect for coastal walks, long lunches and watching the Atlantic.

On warm days you may even be tempted onto the beach. On cooler ones, there is something equally enjoyable about walking beside the ocean and then disappearing into a café.

And without the peak summer crowds, it is much easier to combine the coast with a spontaneous day out.

→ See our guide to the best beaches near Ainhoa

7. Spring is made for Basque markets and food

The Basque Country is a place where eating well does not require a special occasion.

Markets, farm shops and village food stores are excellent places to discover local produce, while restaurants move gradually towards lighter spring menus as the seasons change.

This is the time to look for local vegetables and early seasonal produce alongside the ingredients that are available throughout the year: Ossau-Iraty sheep’s cheese, Bayonne ham, Espelette pepper, gâteau basque and good bread.

A rainy spring morning is also an excellent excuse to spend far too long in a market before going somewhere for lunch.

→ Discover Ossau-Iraty cheese and its Basque mountain origins

8. You can go from mountains to ocean in the same day

This is one of our favourite things about Ainhoa at any time of year, but spring makes it particularly easy.

Spend the morning walking in the hills, have lunch in the village, then drive down to Saint-Jean-de-Luz for an afternoon beside the ocean.

Or take the opposite approach: coffee in Biarritz, lunch on the coast, then return inland as the evening light reaches the mountains.

The distances are short enough that you never really have to choose between a mountain holiday and the sea.

9. Crossing into Spain makes every day feel like an excursion

Ainhoa sits only a few kilometres from the Spanish border.

From the village you can quickly reach Urdax, Zugarramurdi and the Baztan Valley, while a longer day can take you towards Pamplona or San Sebastián.

Spring is especially good for simply following the smaller roads across the border, stopping in villages and discovering how the landscape changes — while still remaining recognisably Basque.

There is something rather wonderful about having breakfast in France, spending the afternoon in Navarre and being back in Ainhoa for dinner.

10. The weather encourages you to improvise

Perhaps this is the best reason of all.

A perfect spring day in the Basque Country does not necessarily mean cloudless blue skies from breakfast until dinner.

The weather changes. A misty morning can become a warm afternoon. Rain may send you to a museum, market or long lunch, only for the mountains to reappear later in the day.

That unpredictability makes spring a good season for travelling without an overly rigid programme.

If the hills are clear, go walking. If the coast is sunny, head to the ocean. If it rains, there are caves, museums, food markets and spas.

→ What to do in the French Basque Country when it rains

Spring in Ainhoa

Spring suits Ainhoa.

The surrounding countryside is green, the mountain paths are coming back to life and the village remains calmer than during the height of summer. The coast is close enough for spontaneous days beside the Atlantic, while the Spanish border opens up another whole landscape just a few minutes away.

For us, it is the season when the French Basque Country feels particularly easy to explore: walk a little, eat well, follow the weather and don’t try to fit too much into one day.

And if it rains?

That is partly why everything is so green.

Continue exploring

→ Things to do in Ainhoa and the French Basque Country
→ Hiking around Ainhoa, the Camino and GR10
→ The history of Ainhoa
→ The best beaches near Ainhoa
→ What to do in the French Basque Country when it rains